DIY Underbust Corset

I received a sewing machine from my mother for Christmas about 7 years ago. Since then, I have taken up several projects to try to develop my "sewing technique" mainly they were small things like making throw pillows, recovering some cushions for a glider, and sewing a t-shirt memory quilt (which I have yet to complete). In addition to those odd projects I have tried to sew a Halloween costume each year. The first year, I made a simple Jedi cloak that turned out really well. The second I made an Sally Jupiter dress (Watchmen) that turned out fairly decent.

Last year I decided to go less iconic/geeky but push my sewing further by doing a pirate costume. I really wanted an underbust corset for this, so I set out on my journey to figure out how to make a custom pattern. I ended up somewhat following this tutorial from Katafalk. However, I really wanted a closed back and a laced front, so I altered the pattern for my needs. I ended up having 3 pattern panels cut out, which translated into an 6 panel corset. I ended up added two panels to the front for my grommets at the end, which made the corset an 8 panel underbust. As I said, this is a learning process for me. So down to my quick tutorial on how I constructed the corset. This picks up after you have your pattern cut out.

Step 1 - Cut out pattern

As you can see, I went with newspaper to cut out my pattern. You can either by a pattern to use, or follow one of the many tutorials out there to make a custom pattern. Custom patterns seem to be trial and error for me so far, so don't get discouraged if you find you have to alter things along the way!

Since I am just learning, and I wasn't sure if this would even turn out right, I used some upholstery fabric that I had gotten at a yard sale. From everything I had read, I knew that I needed something durable and not very stretchy so that it would hold its shape well.

 Once you have your fabric picked out, use your pattern to cut your fabric. Remember to add on to your measurements for the seam allowance, this is always what gets me!! You will want to cut out four pieces of fabric for each pattern. This will give you enough panels for the two complete corsets. You want to do this, because you will need your inside lining as well as your outside.

Step 2 - Sew the panels together

Based on your seam allowance, align your panels up so the pattern sides are facing each other. As you can see, I used my pattern to help me correctly line the panels up.
Once you have them aligned and have used push pins to hold the materials in place, start sewing! I played around with the types of stitch that I used until I felt like it was a solid stitch. I hope to be more technical in future tutorials!!

Step 3 - Slit your seam allowance

After sewing all the panels together, you should notice the panels won't fold well. This is due to the seam allowance keeping the panels straight. Use your scissors to slit the seam allowance at an angle for each curve in your fabric. This should allow the panels to lay correctly.

Step 4 - Sew your seams

Once you have slit your seams so they are laying better. You need to go back around and stitch them into place. You may want to iron them down first so they are laying well. Through my research I found two different ways to do this. Some people suggest separating the extra fabric and stitching it down on each side of the seam. My fear is that this would weaken the seam. I went with the second option, which is to lay it down towards the back and place one stitch per seam. This should strengthen your seams. Which I desperately needed, this being my first time!

Once you have sewed all your panels and stitched your seams down. You should end up with something that looks like the above image. Remember, you will want to do this entire process again, so that you have your inside lining as well as your outside corset.

Step 5 - Repeat steps 1-4 for Lining

Step 6 - Add Interfacing

This step will help stabilize your corset. You can choose not to add interfacing to your panels, but it is fairly cheap and will make a huge difference in the final product! I bought some simple iron-on interfacing from JoAnn fabric. I actually went to the store and got about 3 yards, so the cost was as outrageous as you would think if you look online at the 25 yds.

Step 7 - Sew your corset and lining together

This is a fairly simple step. I recommend doing this after adding your interfacing because it will be much easier. You simply take both corset panels (lining and outside) and place them pattern side together. Then you will sew up each end.

After sewing up each end, turn your corset right-side out. You will now have to ask yourself the age old question of "To bone or not to bone". If you are wanting a basic costume piece, it isn't all that necessary. If you want something that will hold its shape fairly well, I would recommend going for the plastic boning. It worked well on my piece that I wore the entire night. The steel boning is for the pros, and although I may get there at some point, it is mainly for when you want to really cinch your waste rather than just for a costume piece.

If you decide that you want to add boning, now is the time to decide where it will be placed. I went fairly simple with mine, as it is a costume piece. I added boning to the front panels to stabilize where my grommets would be. I also added two pieces to the back panel, as it was fairly simple and I didn't want it drooping. And one piece to each side. At this point, you will want to sew pockets for where you want to slide the boning in. I also recommend adding a few more stitches from top to bottom along several seams to ensure that your corset and lining will remain in place properly.

Step 8 - Add the boning

I purchased my plastic boning from amazon. I ended up getting two packages due to the awesome price. Did I mention I'm fairly cheap? I figured I might as well get my money's worth for the shipping & handling! I was extremely happy with the semi-flexible plastic boning. It was easy to cut to the exact size I needed. I removed it from the fabric covering and slid it directly into the seams that I wanted it in. I then simply ran a stitch around the entire top and bottom of the corset, effectively closing them in their places.

Step - 9 Add grommets

This was a definite trial and error stage. I ended up heading back to JoAnns to get a hole widener tool and the grommet kit shown below. I felt it was fairly reasonable, and since I was so close to being done I couldn't resist the finishing touches that this would give!

Now I will say that this stage can potentially damage your corset. This is when I added the two additional front panels that would be housing my grommets. (I told you I do things out of order!). There are several grommets that I had bite through the fabric as I pounded them too hard. This caused some of the interfacing to show and my solution was to go back and hand-stitch around the grommets to help keep it from tearing further. Overall, I don't think it turned out too badly for my first piece. I also think that my next attempt at a corset and grommets will be much better thanks to the practice! You can see where I doubled stitches to stabilize the pieces together.

Step 10 - Finish off the edges

At this point you should have a fairly complete looking corset. However, your edges will be looking pretty shabby compared to the awesomeness that is your corset. I went pretty basic with this and decided to use a ribbon to finish off my edges. To do this, you sew the top of the ribbon to the front of your corset. You then fold the ribbon over and stitch it again so that it is attached to the inside lining. You will do this for the entire top and bottom of your corset.

All that is left is to get some cord for to put through your grommets and finish off your outfit! I used threadbanger's How to Make a Girl Pirate Costume tutorial to help me make my puffy pirate shirt. Then I grabbed a pair of capri dress paints, a belt, and my brother's wooden katana! The hubby was easier in that we grabbed him a pair of ribbed khaki shorts and an old button up. Overall, I think this was one of the best Halloween costumes that I have made so far! Now I am trying to decide what to make this year. *evil grin*